(written by Bren Kyle from 26 yrs of experience as a trainer and rescuer of dogs)

It is surprising to most people that it is really no harder to housebreak an adult dog than a puppy. In some ways it can be easier. At least the adult dog will not need to pee and poop every hour of the day as pups seem to. He has a little more urinary and bowel control and just needs to understand what you want of him. You also have to consider what his past life has been like.

Was he an outdoor dog? Sometimes these dogs can be even easier because they are used to using the great outdoors and not the carpet. That's the positive aspect - the negative one is that sometimes they have had the freedom to roam and are a little reluctant to go potty with you standing at the end of a 6' leash staring at them impatiently. If you think your dog might not be used to 'going' on leash, you should get a 15 -25 ft. retractable leash. This enables him to get a little farther away from you to get his privacy. Dogs (especially males) love to mark on top of another dogs' urine. Therefore, it helps to take him where other dogs have been a lot - he should find it irresistable. If a place like this is not convenient, then save the paper towels from the cleanup of his mistakes, or if you can get a sample from a girl dog (for boys), and put it down where you want him to go. Also, remember that dogs naturally are more inclined to go on things that stick up out of the ground, like posts, plants, trees, etc. You will be more successful in an area with lots of things to pee on rather than a walk down a street or curb where there is not much of interest to him. Keep saying the key phrase "GO POTTY" until he does. Don't pet or allow any distractions - strictly business until he gets it done. When he is almost through, so as not to disturb his concentration, begin praising him in a very high pitched tone of voice. Men should use a falsetto voice. Lay it on thick. Even applause can be helpful. You may want to have some treats in your pocket that he only gets after going potty. Don't stop till you see him puff up with self pride and look at you like "what did I do?"

Catching him going inside.There is a difference between a dog that is 'mostly housebroken' because he will go potty outside when you take him out (and it's convenient) and one that knows that he shouldn't go potty inside and will purposely hold it till you get home to let him out. The difference is in your behavior. In order to have a truly housebroken dog - not one who would be glad to go potty inside if you didn't adhere to the perfect schedule, you must catch him in the act and startle him. I recommend a 3 to 4 week INTENSIVE TRAINING PERIOD. In this period he must ALWAYS BE IN ONE OF THE FOLLOWING SITUATIONS: (do this until he is housebroken -it ALWAYS works if you do your part)

1. OUTSIDE WITH YOU ON LEASH OR IN A FENCED AREA WITH YOU WATCHING SO YOU CAN SAY "GO POTTY" AND PRAISE LAVISHLY WHEN HE DOES THE DEED

2. INSIDE IN A CRATE APPROPRIATELY SIZED FOR HIM (NOT FOR LONG SPELLS WITHOUT RELIEF)

3. INSIDE WITH YOU WATCHING HIM LIKE A HAWK!!!! WITH ALL DOORS CLOSED TO OTHER ROOMS AND, IF NECESSARY, LEASHED TO YOUR BODY OR BELT so he has to follow you around.

The intensive dedicated period can save you lots of grief later though it may seem like a lot of work.

WHEN YOU CATCH HIM BEGINNING TO GO POTTY INSIDE you must startle him with your voice. NEVER HIT. This can cause a world of temperament problems, and he may not retaliate towards you, but let a child or a stranger move their hands too fast, and he thinks he's going to be hit, and he may bite them. Dogs give back what they are given. We, in rescue, have seen so many emotionally damaged dogs and many were made that way through battles with a previous guardian who didn't know how to housebreak properly. When the dog didn't pick it up quickly enough, they lost their temper and went off on him and permenantly damaged his trust level for humans. So, just as with children, it's important to be consistent and sure of yourself, not to terrorize, but to communicate in a language they can understand. When you see the dog getting ready to go potty inside, you (in a deep, and startling voice) command "NO - OUTSIDE". Immediately sweep him off his feet (practically running) with great speed and vigor, and take him outside saying firmly all the way out "OUTSIDE!!!" Take him out even if you think he is finished. You have to make the point. Stand there a while and see if he does anything more and, if so, praise him. Then as you are picking up the poop or dabbing the spot with paper towel, keep scolding him -. "Did you do this? Shame on you. Outside!"

Be sure to give him some affection with high pitched babytalk within the next few minutes, so you don't make him neurotic. Balance is the key - just as with children, they want to please you - you have to show them how and be consistent.

A HEALTHY STOOL. You must be working with a healthy dog first and foremost. A newly rescued dog may have a loose stool (colitis) due to the change in people and environment. But if you have any doubt as to diahrea, intestinal worms, or bladder of kidney infection compromising his ability to hold it, you need to take a stool or urine sample to the vet and have it checked.

EATING SCHEDULE. During housebreaking, I recommend feeding a small meal in the evening, no later than 6pm. The larger meal should be in the morning. Water should be available all of the time. Often dogs who are pooping in the house can be cured with a better feeding schedule - you may have to play with the time until you get it right. Food usually turns into poop about 8 hrs later so its usually best to feed early in the morning - and he'll need to poop after eating also.

BELLYBANDS. We recommend the use of a bellyband for male dogs while you are training. The bellyband does not stop them from urinating - it does however, keep your frustration level down, because his pee can't strike it's intended target. Thus during the training period, your house doesn't sustain any damage and your nerves don't get quite so frayed. They are quick and easy to put on (velcro) and take off. Bellybands are great for dogs who are older and simply don't have the control they once had - the incontinent dog can have his freedom in the house back. He need not be confined to a kitchen or laundry room anymore. Don't forget to take it off when he goes outside though. If you have a male dog or will be adopting a male dog, Click Here to find out about Bren's Bellybands which she makes and sells. They will protect your house while your doggie is learning to be housetrained. The cost of your bellyband goes to support the rescue and adoption of homeless dogs.

THE PROPER SIZED CRATE. You are using the crate to take advantage of his natural instinct not to mess where he has to sleep. Obviously, if the crate is too big, you lose this benefit. If you want to get a larger crate so it will fit a pup when he grows up, you can put a box in one side so that it fits for now and can still be used later. Dogs don't like to be near their poop or pee after they do it - unless they have "learned to live dirty" - this is a condition that happens when he is left in there too long, absolutely has to go, and gets used to it. So make sure he has the opportunity to go out enough. Pups under 12 wks can't hold it very long (such as overnight) so it is important to give them bedding on one side and newspaper on the other so that they don't "learn to live dirty." The adult dog will hold it until you come and take him out thus learning your routine. Be sure you always take him outside as soon as he gets out of the crate and after every event such as eating, riding in the car, or any kind of excitement.

If your dog has established the habit of going in the house, it may be a little harder, but if you are diligent about the above, he'll have no choice but to be housebroken. Be sure to keep most doors to other rooms closed during this time so he can't sneak off and do something behind your back. IF YOU DO YOUR PART, HE'LL DO HIS!! IT'S JUST THAT SIMPLE.

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